Island Getaway: Friday Harbor, WA

Photo of Roche Harbor by Warren Talbot

Q: Where can you see whales, deer, farm animals, and a camel within minutes of each other?

A: San Juan Island, off the coast of Washington and just a stone’s throw from British Columbia

We spent 3 days in this isolated paradise and didn’t want to come back.  I can see why the owner of our cabin leaves out real estate guides for guests – you cannot visit without wanting to move here.

San Juan Island History

San Juan Island is the biggest of the San Juan Islands and has two towns: Friday Harbor in the Southeast and Roche Harbor in the north.  The island has a strange history.  Inaccuracies in mapping in the 18th century left a dispute between the British and the Americans on the status of this island; both claimed it as theirs.  Even today there are 2 camping grounds, one called the American Camp and one called the British Camp.

When the Brits brought in 1300 sheep to graze the southern tip of the island, things got heated.  The Americans wanted them to pay tax on the sheep and sent in a tax collector.  Things came to a head when a British pig was shot by an American farmer and thus started the Pig War.

Today things are calm and the island belongs to the United States, but the Brits have their revenge.  Staying on an island so close to the Canadian border means expensive roaming charges on your cell phone!  Best to turn it off and enjoy what the island has to offer.

Things to Do

Orca whale photo by digicla via Flickr

Biking around the island is a popular activity, and you can rent bicycles from Island Bicycles.  The views are amazing, and the terrain is not too hilly for a couch potato athlete.  If biking is not your thing, go to Susie’s Mopeds and Scootcars to rent the motorized kind.

You can go on a whale watching charter with several local companies, or you can take a chance of seeing them from land at Lime Kiln Point, also known as Whale Watch Park.  Bring a picnic basket and watch for whales from one of several great vantage points.   Because you never know where the whales will be, you can always tune into OrcaSound.net to find out where they were last spotted by the sounds they make underwater.  We saw whales at both Lime Kiln Point and South Beach on the same day.

Camping is available at both American Camp National Historical Park and English Camp National Historic Park.  Plenty of hiking, beaches, and wildlife viewing in both camps, and you are sure to see a bald eagle flying overhead during your stay.

At the southeast end of the island is Cattle Point, which is where the lighthouse is located.  You can hike to the lighthouse for amazing views,

Photo of Pelindaba Lavender Farm by Warren Talbot

and the sunset from this angle is gorgeous.  You can also see Lopez Island in the distance.

There is still plenty to do on the interior of the island as well.  We went to the Pelindaba Lavender Farm, which was in full bloom (July-September).   Photographers and flower lovers alike with be happy with this stop.  Art lovers will like the mammoth sculptures throughout the farm.  Visit the gift shop for hand-crafted lavender products, or ask for clippers and a bag to cut your own.  This was one of my favorite activities of the weekend.

If shopping is your thing, both Roche Harbor and Friday Harbor have many shops to choose from, including 2 really good bookstores.  King’s Market is the local grocery store on Friday Harbor and is on Spring Street just as you come off the ferry.

A spa day is almost unnecessary in such a peaceful place, but if you want a little pampering you can book a massage at Lavendera Day Spa

San Juan Vineyards is a cute little winery located next to the smallest church I’ve ever seen.  I recommend going here more for the experience than the wine.  The tasting room is located in a historic school house, and the views from the deck are beautiful.  Definitely check out the little church next door.  The woodwork is beautiful, and the doors were unlocked when we were there.

We saw several of these foxes over the weekend (photo by Warren Talbot)

The Whale Museum is a popular destination.  Learn all about whales, talk to knowledgeable staff about the best places to see a whale on the island, and learn the difference between resident, offshore, and transient whales.

The middle of the island contains farms with sheep, cows, horses, llamas and even a camel.  You can go from the coast watching eagles and whales to the interior seeing farm and wildlife within minutes.

Restaurants

Whether you want a fast but inexpensive sandwich (Rocky Bay Cafe on Spring Street), breakfast with a view (Lime Kiln Point Cafe in Roche Harbor), or a nice dinner out where the locals eat (Backdoor Kitchen & Catering), you’ll find what you need.  We like to eat out for breakfast or lunch and have dinner at “home,” so we bought groceries from King’s Market and grilled out most nights.

There are also several bars in both towns for a mid-afternoon beverage or happy hour.  Get close to the harbor and you can do plenty of people and boat watching while you sip.

Getting There

You can access Friday Harbor by ferry or by plane.  Washington State Ferries provides year-round car and passenger service from Anacortes,

Photo of woodpecker by Warren Talbot

WA to all of the San Juan Islands as well as Sidney, BC, Canada.  You can easily visit the other San Juan Islands by using this interisland ferry service.  During the summer season and especially on Fridays, arrive at the ferry 2 hours early if you are driving.  Remember that you only have to pay your fare to get to the island – it is free coming back.  If you want to walk on, you can easily rent a moped when you arrive just a couple of blocks from the ferry terminal.  You can park your car in Anacortes for a fee if you want to walk on.

The bonus on the ferry ride is the chance to talk to a naturalist on board.  They give talks about the whales and wildlife to interested passengers.  For instance, I learned that there are 3 pods of resident orcas in the area, and the matriarch of one pod is 99 years old (they call her Granny).  We also learned how they identify the whales (through the dorsal fins) and got pointers on where to find them.  If you have the opportunity, don’t miss this talk.

Kenmore Air has flights from the Seattle area to San Juan Island, and San Juan Airlines departs from Anacortes and Bellingham, WA.  There are several companies who also book charters.

Healthcare

Because the island is so small and only has about 6000 residents total, there is not a lot in the way of healthcare.  If you hurt yourself while forcing your couch potato body to perform like an athlete, you can go to Inter-Island Medical Center on Spring Street in Friday Harbor.  It is not staffed 24/7, but there is a number to call if you need assistance.  We picked up an injured bicyclist during a drive and took her to this facility to treat a nasty gash on her ankle.

Where to Stay

Warren and Max snuggled up on the porch of our cabin (photo by Betsy Talbot)

We stayed in a cabin rented through VRBO.  We traveled with friends and stayed in a 2-bedroom cabin near False Bay.  We had a more woodsy atmosphere at our place (I had a deer walk up while I was reading a book on the front porch), but you can get beach rentals as well.

One place I’d like to try on my next trip is the Earthbox Motel and Spa.  It promises all the memories of your childhood road trips with the family and all the spa conveniences you want as an adult.

There are several campground and RV parks as well as an elderhostel, hotels, bed & breakfasts, and condos rentals.  You can find out more about accommodations by visiting the San Juan Island Chamber of Commerce.

My Favorite Things

Seeing the whales was magnificent, but so was driving through the farmland and ranches on the interior.  Where else can you see a llama and a camel in the same afternoon as a whale?  The lavender farm was also a treat, and cooking our dinner on a grill outside the cabin in the cool summer evening was a relaxing way to end the day.

I’ll leave you with one of my favorite moments of the weekend: a gorgeous sunset directed by our friend Maria and narrated by Warren.