Warren and Betsy at Black Canyon National Park in Colorado (Photo by Warren Talbot)
If you like the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Valley, you can’t miss Black Canyon National Park in Western Colorado.
Black Canyon is so deep that the Gunnison River loses more elevation in 48 miles than the Mississippi River does from Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. The river drops an average of 96 feet per mile, and up to 480 feet in one 2-mile stretch. At the the highest elevation (Warner Point), the gorge is 2,772 feet deep. Make sure your footing is secure before you look down!
We spent only 3 hours at this park and were able to appreciate not only the majestic beauty, but also peregrine falcons, prehistoric rock, and the clean air of Colorado that allowed us to see another mountain 60 miles away.
What to See
The Gunnison River at Black Canyon (Photo by Warren Talbot)
Your first stop should be the Visitor’s Center on the South Rim. There you can see exhibits, watch videos, and get information on the park. You will be amazed to see that the center is perched right on the edge of a cliff! Walk out to see some amazing views that will get even better as you go.
My favorite stops were Pulpit Rock and and Dragon Point, though I have to say none of them were bad. Some points have a bit of a hike involved, especially the last and highest one at Warner Point, but you can still enjoy the majority of the park with only light hiking and short distances. You can view all of our pictures of Black Canyon and Monument State Park here.
Things to look for
Juniper Tree (Photo by Warren Talbot)
Peregrine falcons and ravens can easily be seen flying in the canyon, and on the ground you’ll see lizards and chipmunks. Look out for the great horned owl on the canyon rims, and bluebirds, jays, swifts, and wrens flying about. If you take the road down to the river you will also be able to spot water ouzels (birds that dip their heads in water to feed).
One of the more interesting sights is the juniper tree. They grow in a twisty fashion that looks almost like a huge curvy bonsai tree. They can be odd, dramatic, or even gravity-defying in appearance.
The River
The Gunnison River runs through Black Canyon (in fact, created Black Canyon), and you can drive down to this area through the East Portal Road, which is closed in winter. The road is very steep with hairpin turns, and vehicles larger than 22 feet long are not permitted. You can camp, fish, or picnic at the river.
Getting There
Deitch Haus has Paul Bunyon-sized portions (Photo by Warren Talbot)
Canyon is located about 15 miles from Montrose, Colorado and 250 miles southwest of Denver. You can reach the South Rim through US Highway 50 and Colorado Highway 347. We stayed in Grand Junction, Colorado and drove about 2 hours to get there, stopping off in Delta for a deluxe buffet at Miller’s Deitch Haus ($7.99 for a Thanksgiving-style spread of food every day).
Lodging
Camping is available at the North Rim and the South Rim in designated campgrounds, which are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Fire are only permitted in the grills in campgrounds, and no firewood may be gathered. Leashed pets are permitted.
Hotels are available in nearby Montrose, Colorado.
You can drive through Black Canyon with several stops for sightseeing in about 3 hours, so if you are staying within about 100 miles you can still make it a day trip.
Special Considerations
Fishing with a permit is allowed, but hunting and firearms are not. You are also not allowed to gather firewood or build fires anywhere other than the grills at designated campsites.
Never throw anything from the canyon! It can seriously injure or kill someone hiking or climbing below.
Black Canyon is only for experienced climbers and kayakers. You need a permit for climbing and can find out about routes and degrees of difficulty from the rangers. Rafting is highly discouraged.
The park is wheelchair friendly at several points, and in fact we saw several older people and one woman using crutches who were able to enjoy the park with little restriction.
Weather
Sideways Juniper against the Colorado blue sky (Photo by Warren Talbot)
No matter what the weather is below, it can change drastically once you get to 8289 feet in elevation. Bring a jacket and be prepared for wind, storms, and much cooler air.
Drink plenty of water even if you are used to the drier desert air, and go a bit slower than you normally would.
Campgrounds are usually clear until November, and after that the park road is only snow plowed up to the visitor’s center at Gunnison Point.
More information is available at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park website. And don’t forget to watch the Ken Burns documentary on National Parks on PBS later this month.
Have you ever been to Black Canyon National Park? What did you think?
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Betsy Talbot writes about carving the lifestyle you want out of the life you already have. When she’s not writing, she’s paring down, saving up, and getting ready for a year of travel with her husband Warren.
About Betsy
