We have been on the repositioning cruise of the Gap Adventures M/S Expedition for a month now, and it has been a pretty great experience:
- Gorgeous sunrises and sunsets every single day, though no two alike.
- Up close and personal visits from sea birds, dolphins, and flying fish
- Blankets of stars covering the skies at night
But how is the everyday life - eating, sleeping, general living? Is it easier or harder on a boat, and would we choose this form of transportation again?
(Click here if you don’t see the slideshow below.)
How life is different on a ship
The ship moves. That is probably the biggest change from regular life. Things have to be put away, bolted down, or set on little rubbery mats to keep them from sliding off into the floor. Think of all the things in your house that would fall to the ground if your house moved up and down or side to side only a few inches either way.
Walking is done with a more wide-legged gait and you learn to sort of bob and weave as you go to stay balanced. It isn’t something you actually practice; rather your body finds this rhythm naturally after some time. You learn to always have one hand free just in case you need to steady yourself, and it all becomes second nature.
Doors always need to be closed properly or they will rattle and bang as the ship moves. This is also the reason you never leave your hand resting in a door frame.
Food
I don’t know about you, but having every meal prepared and served by someone else in a formal dining room with a view of the ocean is not what we usually experience. The food is top-notch and the staff is eager to please, so it makes it very easy to overindulge. You can have dessert for every single meal if you like, in addition to mid-afternoon tea and cookies. I tell you, it can be dangerous to your waistline.
We are on a first-name basis with the chef and the baker.
One thing we are not fond of, however, is eating alone. Sure, we normally do that anyway, but in the setting of a restaurant with other people. It is a little bit weird to sit at a table in an empty dining room with a server waiting on your every need.
Thankfully over the time we have been on the ship we have become pretty friendly with everyone and many of them come by during meal times to say hello, share a drink or dessert, or even join us for meals. Last night we had a full table, and it was wonderful to have a proper dinner with other people again.
Sleep
No doubt about it, the beds are comfy. We are in a suite now, since we are the only passengers, and we share a queen-sized bed with our own individual duvets. (This is a genius move for anyone who sleeps with a blanket hog or someone with a different body thermostat. You still sleep together but you get to adjust your own warmth without disturbing your mate.)
There are giant windows in our room with light-blocking drapes, so we can let in as much or as little of the nighttime moonlight or early-morning sun as we want.
The biggest adjustment for sleep is the ship’s movement. Most nights it is a gentle rhythm that is hardly noticeable, but some nights it can be a bit of an effort to actually stay in the bed. Under each bed are foam wedges that can be inserted under the mattress to create a little sloped wall to keep us in bed. It takes a little bit of practice to get this just right, but after all this time only the stormiest of seas keep us from a sound sleep.
Exercise
I mentioned the gym before, and it is quite good. There are weights, benches, a treadmill, a stair machine, a bicycle and a rowing machine. But just like the sleep section above, the rolling of the ocean can make working out difficult.
But then, we all use any excuse we can not to exercise, right?
What I think we miss most is the ability to get out and hike. This ship is 105 meters long, but it is designed for viewing wildlife and scenery in cold conditions, not power-walking or jogging around the deck.
So yes, I could be on the treadmill every day if I really wanted to. Or say no to some of Elmirante’s desserts. But living on a ship is such a visual and sensual workout that it is easy to overlook getting the actual physical workout.
Relationships
This is the interesting part. At first I thought being in the same space with the same people would drive me crazy. After all, I am a strange combination of social butterfly and extreme hermit - I need my time alone and also like to meet new people. I could not imagine how the people who live here for almost a year at a time cope with this.
Turns out I worried for nothing. Life on the ship is like living in a dorm at college or with roommates. Sure, there is plenty of togetherness, but there are also areas for privacy if you want to be alone.
People end up functioning like a large family with the more social ones gathering during their off time to play music, watch movies, or talk, and the less social ones typing away on computers, reading books, or staying in their cabins. When the weather is nice, like on this repositioning cruise, you can find people on the deck outside talking, smoking, and laughing with each other just like any other warm night in every place in the world.
As a couple, I have found this ship to be almost the perfect setting for our trip. We are actively traveling without having to pack and unpack. We get plenty of time together and can also easily find time alone when needed. We can enjoy each other’s company as well as make new friends separately and together while on board.
We can work at the desk in our room, read in the library, watch a movie in the lounge, have a drink in the bar, stand at the bridge with the officers, count the stars at night from the top deck, picnic on the aft deck in sunny weather, lean over the bow to watch the fish and dolphins swim by, or sit back and watch the wake and think (one of my favorite activities).
The days always end faster than we think they should, and we are a little surprised that the trip is almost over already.
For every person who has asked us if we are bored yet: NO. If you are the type that needs to be entertained you might find it difficult to stay on board long-term, but if you are even the least bit motivated you can always find something to do.
Could you live on a boat?
We leave in just a week, and in some ways this is exciting to me as that means there is another adventure to come. But if we weren’t landing in a week, would we want to stay on the ship? The surprising answer is yes. I can see what draws people to this kind of life and why they would stay so far away from home. It is not just the money; it is the adventure, the sense of living in a way few people still do. It is actually quite a romantic way to live.
Any day on the ocean we can see something amazing - dolphins, whales, a giant storm cloud moving over an endless sky - and it makes us feel a little bit like the early ocean explorers.
If they had their own sauna, that is.
Do this sound like the kind of life you could get used to, or are you a confirmed landlubber?
About Betsy
I have two strong tendencies that I’m not altogether happy about: 1) Too much of an introvert that lives in his head far too much! 2) Too much of a need to be a “people-pleaser”. Maybe I’d find living on a ship as a perfect escape! I’d probably just be happy sitting in my cabin on my off hours (though it seems there aren’t much of those!) working away online; and I’d probably be content doing a work that was focused around making the passengers happy. So maybe I could do it.
But that being said … I get bored easily if I’m stuck in too much of a routine. So if I were working on a ship I might eventually end up “walking the plank” one stormy night! “I can’t take another day on this #$%@ ship!! Yarrrrr!” lol!!!!
Would you two actually seriously consider working on a cruise ship? That’s gotta be different than what you are currently experiencing-though I know you’ve been making yourself useful on board, it isn’t exactly a “day job”. How would if fill if you awoke in the morning knowing that you had a long day of work ahead of you taking care of passengers, et al; would that taint the whole “we’re on a boat!” feeling for you? I mean … somebody has to clean up after the sea-sick folk; who’s job is that?? Ew! If that was my job it might put a whole new meaning into the phrase “adventure at sea” for me.
Tranque, I think you’re right about the idea of working on a boat for a year as opposed to living on a boat for a year. As it is, Warren does his website work and I do my writing, and we can easily get that work done and still enjoy plenty of time outside or wandering the ship. If we were on a standard ship work schedule and had to stay inside most of the time, it would probably be a different story. Maybe Gap Adventures needs a full-time social media person for their ships? I just heard they added some yachts in Greece to the stable…. hehehe
This crew does work a lot of hours, and I’m not sure we’re cut out for that kind of life long-term. Those of us who have and do work online may complain about a 12-hour day in front of the screen, but that is much less physically tiring than carrying heavy trays, cleaning, or working in a hot engine room for the same period of time. No doubt about it.
And as for working on the ship, the hotel manager assured us we didn’t have to worry about it - we aren’t qualified for anything anyway!
I love the rolling of ships; I think I could get used to it
I’m curious though, is the full crew on board and what are most doing since there are no passengers (like the servers, housekeeping etc.?) Do they eat in a different place, or at a different times…just curious why you both have to eat alone. Very cool though that your food and board are free….(but you still tip the waiter, eh?) 
Hey, Joanna. There is almost a full crew, and what they do during the repositioning is a deep clean of the ship, re-staining of a lot of the wood, touching up wallpaper and paint, shampooing all the furniture/rugs, and sanding/refinishing the picnic tables outside (and probably a hundred other things I’m forgetting). They also install any new systems or provide maintenance to existing ones. For example, they did a lot of work on the air conditioning and water systems while we were on board and installed something new on the bridge. There is ALWAYS someone painting something, and of course everyone helps when the ship pulls into port for painting of the hull.
As for eating, there is a crew mess, and officer’s mess, and the formal dining room for passengers. The crew also has their own lounge area. Even though there are no passengers on board, they are used to using this area and still go there. During the hottest days around the equator we all did pile up in the passenger lounge area because it was the coolest and had several televisions that operated with thumb drives so we could easily watch movies.
And of course we tip the staff! That all comes at the end when we pay our bill, though, and gets divvied up amongst everyone below officer level.
i think it sounds wonderful! i think i could do it for a year but then be ready to get back on land. wish i had considered this before i had a child.
Laura, I’m not sure how it be with a child. I imagine it would be a fantastic adventure for a little one, though a bit dangerous. If we stayed a year and worked we would probably be okay. If we stayed a year without working, we might have to be rolled down the gangway at the end.
Definitely a confirmed landlubber! Absolutely dreading our 7 day cruise from Anchorage to Vancouver! Just wondering……. how is the abundance of food affecting your previous weight losses, I recall you had both lost a considerable amount of weight in Sth America? Are those waistbands getting any tighter
Judy, that sounds like a gorgeous cruise. Don’t dread it! The larger ships (ours only holds 124 passengers) will also be more stable, so you likely won’t feel a thing.
As to the weight - ayiyi! We have both packed on a few pounds from all the delicious - and abundant - food. It wasn’t a problem in Antarctica because we were so active with twice daily land excursions and the extreme cold burned a lot of calories. But 5 weeks with less activity and more food is a sure recipe for weight gain.
We have already planned a 28-mile roundtrip hike for the 2 days after we get off the ship.
Betsy,
Just wanted to let you know I am thoroughly enjoying your trip, popping in and out as your journey progresses. I hardly know you - if you remember we met once at Nancy Juetten’s PubliciTea - but I feel like I’m a friend.
I’m not an everyday reader, perhaps reading only once or twice a month, but I love your posts and Warren’s photographs every time I dive in. I’m positive I’ll buy your book if you choose to create one.
Your conversational writing style is engaging, your posts are informative and offer genuine insight and information. Warren’s photographs are stunning and beautiful.
Thanks so much for inviting us along.
Happy sailing and enjoy your last week on the ship.
Hi, Sharon! Thank you for your kind words. I do remember you from the event and am touched that you are keeping up with our journey. I just clicked over to your site and saw the beautiful pictures of the tulips and daffodils in La Conner and it brought back fond memories of a few trips to see them when we lived in Seattle. What an absolutely gorgeous place you live in.
On a more personal note, you just never know how powerful a heartfelt compliment can be for someone else. I’m struggling very much right now with an important writing project, and your note about my “conversational writing style” just made me realize I was trying to write with a different voice on this project and that is why I’m struggling. Thanks for clearing the mud from my eyes. This is a great reminder to us all to share our good thoughts with people - you never know how much your words can impact someone else. Thank you, Sharon. I may actually get some sleep tonight!
She is indeed a lovely ship and I can easily share every sentiment you have described above. Even with a full set of passengers, she somehow offers you enough privacy in a way, doesn’t she ? I remember there being moments I actually ‘lost’ my darling wife (or was it the other way around ?), only to find her wandering about, reading or on deck.
Having her to yourself must have been a marvelous experience as well. On our return trip, almost noone was about due to seasickness, and I found it a unique experience wandering about with almost only the staff. It was amazing how quickly she felt as a second home.
I’m looking forward to read your thoughts once you’re back on land though…be warned, the m/s expedition doesn’t let you go that easily, I found, and traveling on proved more difficult than I had expected. We even pondered on cutting our stay in Buenos Aires short and just return home again.
Can you feel home-sick for a place where you don’t even live ?
Bart, it will be hard to leave, and especially knowing that the friends we are meeting in England are all people we met on the ship. It is a gift that keeps on giving.
Thanks so much for sharing your routine and what life is like on a boat for a long period. I’ve been curious. It sounds like a pretty nice balance - relaxation and peace to work, write and read, but also enough going on that you never really get bored. I have to admit that sounds like heaven right about now!
We were really surprised by how friendly and warm the staff were when we were on the Expedition. Really a great team. And don’t get me started on the food!
Glad you are having such a great time on board.
Audrey, today is our last full day on the ship at sea, and we are more than a little sad to leave. But it will be nice to start hiking again to get rid of some of the fat we’ve managed to find while on board!
Hi Betsy - fantastic to catch up with the Expedition again and to see those fabulous crew guys having fun in the video. We MISS the Expedition - our trip to Antarctica was amazing, but so much more so because of the fantastic crew. We were lucky with the weather so we didn’t have so much of the Drake Shakes but the Drake Lake instead - certainly on the way out - but the bed was so comfy that even with 9m waves on the way back we weren’t really affected.
As Bart says above, we were also lucky not to get seasick and the boat was relatively empty at times with the poorly ones in their cabins and we just wandered around feeling very much at home.
We were lucky enough to have a Category 5 suite and as you say, Betsy, these are soo comfortable - so much more luxury than we were expecting.
I hear she is leaving from Falmouth for the Arctic soon - is that tomorrow? We would love to pop down to see her before she goes.
We can’t wait to get back on board - hope to book another trip with her before too long.
Hi, Janine. I think the Expedition is taking 3 short cruises around England before heading up to do the first Arctic tour at the end of the month. They have to wait for the ice to break up enough to start the season, plus they have to give the polar bears enough time to clock in for their summer shift of tours
Those category 5 cabins are something else - I could easily live in one for the rest of my life!
Thanks Betsy! Great to hear from you - and I know what you mean about those cabins
We were seriously thinking about the Arctic tour, but it was a bit too soon after Antarctica so maybe next year, if Expedition is going up there again. Take care 
Well, Greg and I went a slightly different direction. We’ve worked as both paid and volunteer boat crew and have been able to sail from California to Tonga via Tahiti and we’ve also sailed in New Zealand. Overall it has been an amazing experience that I can’t recommend hightly enough. We’ve spent some time working in Australia and are off to Bali later this month and are looking forward to getting back on the water! If you want to know how we’ve done it, just ask, we love to help other people figure out how they can do it also
Tiffany, what a great experience you guys have had! I think Warren would have stayed on the ship forever. We’d love to chat more about how you are making your dreams come true.